
Meze tables — the ritual of the north
Twenty small plates before the main course: hellim, hummus, olives, stuffed vine leaves and şeftali kebabı — dinner as a slow event.
What to eat on the island and where — meze tables, harbour seafood, village kebab houses and the sweet, strong coffee culture of the north.

Twenty small plates before the main course: hellim, hummus, olives, stuffed vine leaves and şeftali kebabı — dinner as a slow event.
Grilled sea bream, calamari and mezze at the water's edge, with the Kyrenia castle lit behind the fishing boats.

The north's signature caul-wrapped lamb kebab, cooked over charcoal in inland villages where the meat and the bread are made on site.
Grilled, fried or fresh, the squeaky brined cheese is on every table — best from the small dairies of the Mesarya plain.
A tiny cup of coffee with a glass of water, and hot künefe — shredded pastry and melted cheese in syrup — the classic afternoon stop.
Molohiya (jute-leaf stew), stuffed courgette flowers and slow lamb — the everyday dishes you find in family lokantas, not tourist menus.